Morocco 2010-11 log
Below is the small log I wrote during my time away, in reverse chronological order. Out of habit, I've also posted my status updates from Facebook, though admittedly they don't actually add much here. Enjoy!
Date and time: Saturday 1st January 2011, 22:37 UT
Location: Bath, United Kingdom
Status update: Matthew is back in Bath after a nice break in warm and sunny Marrakesh, and is also looking forward to his first exam-free January in six years.
I'm now back in a rather cold and wet Bath, somewhat missing the relative warmth and sunshine of Africa, though I have to say, particularly after yesterday, I'm quite glad to be back. Yesterday I attempted a day excursion on the train from Marrakesh to Casablanca – which frankly turned out to be a waste of time. Having done my research on the trains before I arrived, I was under the impression they ran every hour – apparently not so – with the result that I arrived in Casablanca just after 2pm, and then found out the only one going back with tickets available left 2½ hours later. Which naturally meant I didn't particularly fancy risking getting lost in Casablanca trying to find it's main attraction – the huge Hassan II mosque – and so didn't stray particularly far from the station. The city itself wasn't really a pleasant place – huge, rather grimy, and full of traffic, so in a way the short stop there may have been a blessing. But the journey back was a nightmare – the train was a full half hour late (the one going there was at least on time), packed to the brim (meaning I had to stand at the end of a carriage for 3 hours) and full of lots of young and rowdy Moroccans – not particularly fun. Last night was, of course, New Year's Eve, though I hadn't expected much to be happening – a prediction that was true with regard to the lack of fireworks, but false in that the whole city seemed to be out on the streets as I wandered back to my Riad. Today I've had a little wander around the newer part of the city (including some lovely avenues and gardens) before heading for the airport to catch my flight home. Smooth journey home from the airport now all the ice and snow has gone and quite glad to be back as I've said, though the thought of work on Tuesday and no more time off until Easter isn't quite so appealing…
Location: Bath, United Kingdom
Status update: Matthew is back in Bath after a nice break in warm and sunny Marrakesh, and is also looking forward to his first exam-free January in six years.
I'm now back in a rather cold and wet Bath, somewhat missing the relative warmth and sunshine of Africa, though I have to say, particularly after yesterday, I'm quite glad to be back. Yesterday I attempted a day excursion on the train from Marrakesh to Casablanca – which frankly turned out to be a waste of time. Having done my research on the trains before I arrived, I was under the impression they ran every hour – apparently not so – with the result that I arrived in Casablanca just after 2pm, and then found out the only one going back with tickets available left 2½ hours later. Which naturally meant I didn't particularly fancy risking getting lost in Casablanca trying to find it's main attraction – the huge Hassan II mosque – and so didn't stray particularly far from the station. The city itself wasn't really a pleasant place – huge, rather grimy, and full of traffic, so in a way the short stop there may have been a blessing. But the journey back was a nightmare – the train was a full half hour late (the one going there was at least on time), packed to the brim (meaning I had to stand at the end of a carriage for 3 hours) and full of lots of young and rowdy Moroccans – not particularly fun. Last night was, of course, New Year's Eve, though I hadn't expected much to be happening – a prediction that was true with regard to the lack of fireworks, but false in that the whole city seemed to be out on the streets as I wandered back to my Riad. Today I've had a little wander around the newer part of the city (including some lovely avenues and gardens) before heading for the airport to catch my flight home. Smooth journey home from the airport now all the ice and snow has gone and quite glad to be back as I've said, though the thought of work on Tuesday and no more time off until Easter isn't quite so appealing…
Date and time: Thursday 30th December 2010, 19:32 UT
Location: Marrakesh, Morocco
Status update: [None]
I'm currently sat in a very noisy Internet cafe just off Diemma el-Fna, Marrakesh's main square. Central Marrakesh is quite an assault on the senses - noisy, lively and slightly crazy seem to be three things that sum up this city quite well. The square behind me is full of street entertainers playing all sorts of traditional sounding music, as well as numerous stalls selling spices, souvenirs and fresh juice. And that's not to mention the "mobile restaurants" (moveable stalls) that are currently setting themselves up for the evening. Walking into such a city from the airport (which was around 45 minutes walk out of town) was quite something, though the bigger challenge was trying to find my way around the medina (the old part of the city) and more importantly, to find my accommodation – not easy when it consists of lots of narrow, winding, busy streets and it's getting dark. Made it after a fair bit of doubling back, and got a very warm welcome from the owner – though was slightly less impressed to discover I'd been booked in another property he owned 10 minutes away. The place is rather nice, though – it's a traditional Moroccan Riad (courtyard house), with a lovely terrace that is great place to have breakfast in the sun. Yesterday I spent wandering around Marrakesh itself, having a wander around the grounds of the Koutoubia Mosque (one of Marrakesh's landmarks), getting hopelessly lost in the medina while trying to find my way to various museums, having a wander around all the traditional souqs (Moroccan shops) while trying not to be drawn in by the very persuasive (and if I'm honest, often annoying) shopkeepers selling all sorts of very Middle Eastern looking souvenirs, before then finishing up trying a couple of dishes in the "mobile restaurants" on the main square – which were surprisingly nice! Today, by contrast, couldn't have been more different as I've spent most of it in the nearby Atlas Mountains, on a tour organised by the owner of my accommodation. Several stops en-route, including for breakfast at a small house inhabited by indigenous Berbers, for a short camel ride a little further up, and then for a hike into the mountains themselves – it did start to get rather cool the higher we got! What was probably most interesting though was talking to the guide on the way back – he himself is one of the Berbers as opposed to an Arab (who inhabit the majority of Morocco) – and hearing his thoughts on Islam in Morocco. As a non-religious person, he clearly doesn't approve of Islam dominating life so much – be it the calls to prayer often waking him at 4am or the attitude of the police in assuming anyone who looks North African must be a Muslim (as some laws in Morocco apply to Muslims only; certainly bizarre by the standards of any Western country). Arrived back in Marrakesh just after 4pm, now planning to go and get another meal from the stalls on the square that now look pretty much assembled…
Location: Marrakesh, Morocco
Status update: [None]
I'm currently sat in a very noisy Internet cafe just off Diemma el-Fna, Marrakesh's main square. Central Marrakesh is quite an assault on the senses - noisy, lively and slightly crazy seem to be three things that sum up this city quite well. The square behind me is full of street entertainers playing all sorts of traditional sounding music, as well as numerous stalls selling spices, souvenirs and fresh juice. And that's not to mention the "mobile restaurants" (moveable stalls) that are currently setting themselves up for the evening. Walking into such a city from the airport (which was around 45 minutes walk out of town) was quite something, though the bigger challenge was trying to find my way around the medina (the old part of the city) and more importantly, to find my accommodation – not easy when it consists of lots of narrow, winding, busy streets and it's getting dark. Made it after a fair bit of doubling back, and got a very warm welcome from the owner – though was slightly less impressed to discover I'd been booked in another property he owned 10 minutes away. The place is rather nice, though – it's a traditional Moroccan Riad (courtyard house), with a lovely terrace that is great place to have breakfast in the sun. Yesterday I spent wandering around Marrakesh itself, having a wander around the grounds of the Koutoubia Mosque (one of Marrakesh's landmarks), getting hopelessly lost in the medina while trying to find my way to various museums, having a wander around all the traditional souqs (Moroccan shops) while trying not to be drawn in by the very persuasive (and if I'm honest, often annoying) shopkeepers selling all sorts of very Middle Eastern looking souvenirs, before then finishing up trying a couple of dishes in the "mobile restaurants" on the main square – which were surprisingly nice! Today, by contrast, couldn't have been more different as I've spent most of it in the nearby Atlas Mountains, on a tour organised by the owner of my accommodation. Several stops en-route, including for breakfast at a small house inhabited by indigenous Berbers, for a short camel ride a little further up, and then for a hike into the mountains themselves – it did start to get rather cool the higher we got! What was probably most interesting though was talking to the guide on the way back – he himself is one of the Berbers as opposed to an Arab (who inhabit the majority of Morocco) – and hearing his thoughts on Islam in Morocco. As a non-religious person, he clearly doesn't approve of Islam dominating life so much – be it the calls to prayer often waking him at 4am or the attitude of the police in assuming anyone who looks North African must be a Muslim (as some laws in Morocco apply to Muslims only; certainly bizarre by the standards of any Western country). Arrived back in Marrakesh just after 4pm, now planning to go and get another meal from the stalls on the square that now look pretty much assembled…
Date and time: Tuesday 28th December 2010, 12:23 UT
Location: Bristol Airport, United Kingdom
Status update: Matthew is at Bristol airport, 30 minutes away from boarding a plane to warmer climes.
Currently in the departure lounge of Bristol airport, waiting to board. Only one flight from Bristol (to Leeds/Bradford) has been cancelled today and mine appears to be running on time. The trains were running reasonably well this morning, which I rather pleased about considering that I had to work around another cancelled train when getting back to Bath last night. Very much looking forward to being somewhere slightly warmer, if only for a few days...
Location: Bristol Airport, United Kingdom
Status update: Matthew is at Bristol airport, 30 minutes away from boarding a plane to warmer climes.
Currently in the departure lounge of Bristol airport, waiting to board. Only one flight from Bristol (to Leeds/Bradford) has been cancelled today and mine appears to be running on time. The trains were running reasonably well this morning, which I rather pleased about considering that I had to work around another cancelled train when getting back to Bath last night. Very much looking forward to being somewhere slightly warmer, if only for a few days...
